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Title: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 09:21:34 pm Picked up a 98 Chevy 1500 single cab long bed with the 4.3l v6 w/T 2wd for 500 bucks but it ain't runnin it'll turn over but won't start. I bought from my boss and he said all the gauges used to peg out then show a reading and it doesn't do that anymore but the cluster is still gettin power because the fuel guage still moves. The fuel pump is priming but I don't think the plugs are gettin a spark cause it won't even start with ether. He said it was kinda actin up before it just wouldn't start at all and he would kinda kick towards the firewall and it would start but I can't find any relays or lose connections... anybody have any kinda ideas???? either reply on here pm me or text or call me at 281-736-3471
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: halfbreed on October 25, 2012, 09:25:02 pm sound like a bad relay or the computor is bad .
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 09:32:01 pm I looked all over the truck for different relays without takin off the dash and the only 2 relays that was necessary was the fuel pump relay and the starter relay put both on my 95 and it started right up. Really hope it ain't the puter.... they messed up when they started puttin them damn things in...
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: riverbottomhoghunter on October 25, 2012, 09:35:15 pm your main problem is 9 letters c h e v r o l e t ;D just poking fun
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 09:37:42 pm your main problem is 9 letters c h e v r o l e t ;D just poking fun My daily driver is a Chevrolet bud love that truck to death. And its towed its fair share of Ford's >:DTitle: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on October 25, 2012, 09:40:51 pm does it have coil packs or electronic ignition? pull a plug, have some1 turn it over with the plug is grounded where the end of the plug can be observed. if it aint sparkn, then check the coil wire to the distributor cap and see if you can get a spark from the coil, if so, check the distributor, it may be bad. i dont much about elec ign, i like points, minus the adjustment.
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: riverbottomhoghunter on October 25, 2012, 09:41:36 pm your main problem is 9 letters c h e v r o l e t ;D just poking fun My daily driver is a Chevrolet bud love that truck to death. And its towed its fair share of Ford's >:DTitle: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 09:46:53 pm does it have coil packs or electronic ignition? pull a plug, have some1 turn it over with the plug is grounded where the end of the plug can be observed. if it aint sparkn, then check the coil wire to the distributor cap and see if you can get a spark from the coil, if so, check the distributor, it may be bad. i dont much about elec ign, i like points, minus the adjustment. yes its electric ign but its parked at the shop right now till the weekend and only got my lunch break to really mess with it so I haven't torn into it to much the dang distributor cap is up against the firewall.. gotta take the intake and throttle body off to get to it and I tried takin the plugs off to check for spark but wire ain't wantin to come off the dang plug.But if it ain't startin with ether it wouldn't be gettin spark would it?Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Hogkiller, on October 25, 2012, 10:01:24 pm Here is a quick fix:
GET A DODGE! Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: riverbottomhoghunter on October 25, 2012, 10:13:01 pm F O R D first on race say ;D
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 10:28:44 pm Here is a quick fix: GET A DODGE! find me a clean dodge for 500 in the Houston are and I will ;D Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on October 25, 2012, 10:29:07 pm does it have coil packs or electronic ignition? pull a plug, have some1 turn it over with the plug is grounded where the end of the plug can be observed. if it aint sparkn, then check the coil wire to the distributor cap and see if you can get a spark from the coil, if so, check the distributor, it may be bad. i dont much about elec ign, i like points, minus the adjustment. yes its electric ign but its parked at the shop right now till the weekend and only got my lunch break to really mess with it so I haven't torn into it to much the dang distributor cap is up against the firewall.. gotta take the intake and throttle body off to get to it and I tried takin the plugs off to check for spark but wire ain't wantin to come off the dang plug.But if it ain't startin with ether it wouldn't be gettin spark would it?[/quote generaly no it wouldnt start if ehter is being sprayed, but are you spraying ether in the intake/filter housing or directly into the throttle body? if through the throttle body, then no, no spark. if into the filter housing, it may be a blockage from a rat or bird nest leading from filter housing to intake. if you can get the plug wires off with a bit of umphh, then you might aswell go ahead and replace the wires and plugs, so just cut the wire boot if you can get to it with a knife or razor blade, if you cant get to it to cut, a pair of pliers will work with a little twisting action. if you pull the metal connector from the wire, spread the connector, place the inner wire over the outter shielding and recrimp the connector and put the plug back into the boot and turn the eng over. if no spark, ensure the gap is set and the grounding point is clean so it can get a clear connection for the spark. if still no spark, pull the distro cap and ck the elec with in the distor housin, there might be a corroded connection, or just a plain burned out ignition. you may have to invest in a new distro, if still no spark, after new distro, ck the coil, but it may help to ck the coil first before buying a new distro. its been 10yrs or so since i farted with a gas burner, so if im missing something and there are some other gas burner goo-roos out there, please correct me on my trouble shooting steps. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on October 25, 2012, 10:45:52 pm Oh yea, 1 more thing to ck n clean. Pull the distro cap off n ck the rotor n cap points for corrosion n use some fine grit sand paper to clean the brass roto point n the cap points. If its corroded, the electicity cant pass over the points to a clean ground. The chances of ALL plugs being being fouled or corroded is slim, but the ign point in the dtstro can cause a headache for shooting the system. The firing is all based on causing postive energy to get grounded out which in turn causing the spark.
Oh another thing that will cause a sudden lack of ignition is timing. If the timing belt broke, it cant turn the cam, which the distro is pwred off of. If a brike timing belt, turning the eng over valves in the open position will cause bent valves n now its more money. Ck n clean ALL points of ignition from the cap n rotor points all the way to the plugs. Once all is clean n gaped accordingly, then turn the eng over. U can turn the eng over manualy once u get the off to make sure the rotor is turning in the first place. If no turny at rotor, dont turn it over with the started. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 10:47:20 pm Sprayin directly into the throttle body. It sputters a bit but not now that I think of it when sprayed. So it may very well be a bad connection somewhere. Especially the way the plug wires look its been awhile since changed. And I wouldn't be able to cut the boot because of the the headers and heat sheilds on it. But id rather invest in all that instead of a ignition system. My only concern is the cluster isn't movin anymore that's what leads me to believe its the ignition... maybe a bad connection somewhere in there he!! idk ill just have tear into it real good and check everything out. The old driver said it drives and shifts good gets bout 20 mpgfigured I could I could save money by usin it for goin into work ininstead of my 8 mpg gas guzzler
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 25, 2012, 10:53:58 pm I'm not sure anything would be corroded surprisingly I've been lookin for rust on this truck and haven't found ANY I'm extremely surprised with it bein in Houston its whole life and for it being a work truck I'm surprised in its physical condition. no debts rust or scratches and brand new kumho tires lol but ill definitely give all the contact points a thorough checkout. Thanks Charles. If your itchin to bust a couple knuckles and down a couple cold ones gimme a shout this weekend and maybe you can teach me some shade tree mechanic wisdom lol
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on October 26, 2012, 08:41:43 am If i was closer to you, i would give u a hand. Even though the tck aint got no rust or very litte rust, them elec connections n point generate heat n then cool off which will create moisture n if it hadnt been ran in a while, just the humidity in the air will cause corrosion. If wouls spit n sputter with ether, it may not be getting a hot enough spark at the plugs for a complete ign n combustion. I would bet a brass monkey the point n rotor hav a green-white film on them. Once u get it to start, run u can of seefoam through the fuel system n if u hav to pull the throttle body off anyways, let it soak in marvel mystry oil for a day or so n the clean it up with carb n choke cleaner. That oil will seep into the smallest opening n disolve any gunk or grime in the nozzles. Good luck n let me know how it comes out.
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: MOhogger on October 26, 2012, 10:42:07 am Check the fuse for the instrument cluster. There's a safety feature in the ECM that wont allow it to start w/o oil pressure.
If the oil pressure gauge does not rise while cranking that would be the first place I checked. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on October 26, 2012, 12:05:11 pm Alright Charles will do I appreciate it.
And mohogger I've checked all the fuses and there all good. And I switched all the relays from my 95 to the 98 and my 95 started but still no luck with the 98. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Izz on October 26, 2012, 01:51:32 pm your main problem is 9 letters c h e v r o l e t ;D just poking fun My daily driver is a Chevrolet bud love that truck to death. And its towed its fair share of Ford's >:DMay your tools be with you! Title: Re: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Hogsnatchers on October 26, 2012, 01:57:36 pm Sounds like ignition, like Charles was describing, check for spark. Ensure you don't have a pcm power relay problem. It has one just need to find it. That will shut off the spark and cause you to not get spark.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Title: Re: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Hogsnatchers on October 26, 2012, 02:08:24 pm Tried to search for a pcm relay wasn't able to find one so check ignition first
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on October 26, 2012, 02:10:06 pm If it spits n sputter, its gettin a lil spark, just not enough to get a clean full burn.
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 03, 2012, 12:09:16 am Just got it home this evenin been workin 12s so hadn't had time to mess with it much. But the more I mess with it the more I'm thinkin its the ignition. When I got pulled home none of the gauges on the dash worked(speedometer gas gauge battery gauge) so I'm thinkin its the ignition cause the radio ain't even gettin power now... so I'm gonna go ahead and check for spark tomorrow mornin if not ill just get a hole new steerin column. If any of ya'll know of someone with an '88-'98 Chevy or GMC parts truck in the south Houston area gimme a shout or pm me...
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: sgilbreath on November 03, 2012, 05:56:33 am check the crankshaft pickup if it is not picking up it will not fire the injectors
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 03, 2012, 07:32:55 am check the crankshaft pickup if it is not picking up it will not fire the injectors its gettin fuel just not spark. It ain't wantin t start with ether Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Centexhogdogger on November 03, 2012, 09:20:49 am Sounds like ur crank position sensor or cam position sensor.
Could be ur computer but I'd try that first. No spark could be caused by those sensors because if no rpm is read it won't Throw spark. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on November 03, 2012, 09:21:44 am Sounds like ur crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Could be ur computer but I'd try that first. No spark could be caused by those sensors because if no rpm is read it won't Throw spark. X2 Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 03, 2012, 09:47:09 am Sounds like ur crank position sensor or cam position sensor. do you know where those would be located?Could be ur computer but I'd try that first. No spark could be caused by those sensors because if no rpm is read it won't Throw spark. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 03, 2012, 10:13:42 am The only thing that's gettin electric is the lights and starter. No lights on the dash work an its not throwin any spark. Wouldn't that be a component in the ignition not givin anything power?
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Centexhogdogger on November 03, 2012, 10:16:23 am If dash or nothin working
Go with PCM or ignition but most likely its PCM Txt me 254-366-0315 Let me see if I can find info on the PCM fuses and relays Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on November 03, 2012, 10:39:08 am If u aint getn even dash lights, its more than ignition if its the ignition to begin with. If im not mistaken, the gage n dash cluster are solid circuitry. There may be a good bit of corrosion on the terminals n possibly a lil ark n spark across the boards.
As for ur crank n cam pos sensors, look near the hormonic balancer for a sensor near it and the cam sensor will be at the front or back of block or head/s where the cam/s will be or even on the center gear where the chains go from the center gear to the cams. Looks for a sensor or wires goin into the timing cover. Its kinda hard to discribe w/o lookn at that tck or 1 similar Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: CentralTex 254 on November 04, 2012, 09:46:37 pm Other than electrical here's a few things you need to know. Air fire fuel. Without any of these you won't have anything. If its turning over first thin yo check for would be enough fuel pressure. You can buy a cheap giraffe or rent borrow one. If you fuel is good check to make sure there is no restriction on air flow. Rats nest dead animals in filter or air duct etc. If that is good check to make sure you have fire. First start with the COIL wire coming of your distributor to see if your getting fire from the distributor. Make sure your ignition wire is plugged into the distributor. Google had wiring diagrams. Next if you have enough fire to the plugs you could always do a compression test. There are different ways of goin about this which I can explain in further detail. This will tell if you have enough compression. There is also other ways of performing pressure tests to see if you have broke valves or what not.
That's just the mechanical side of it. Also in that year model the most common thing about going out is is the ignition module that is on top of the distributor. Over time moisture and heat will make them go out. Best way to check is go to the junk yard and get a few and try them out at the parts store they are about 40 bucks. Any questions just get with me in here Gary W Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: CentralTex 254 on November 04, 2012, 09:51:42 pm If dash or nothin working Go with PCM or ignition but most likely its PCM Txt me 254-366-0315 Let me see if I can find info on the PCM fuses and relays I would try the ignition module in the distributor first check for fire and then go wit PCM. Igniton module is way cheaper than PCM. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 04, 2012, 10:14:13 pm Other than electrical here's a few things you need to know. Air fire fuel. Without any of these you won't have anything. If its turning over first thin yo check for would be enough fuel pressure. You can buy a cheap giraffe or rent borrow one. If you fuel is good check to make sure there is no restriction on air flow. Rats nest dead animals in filter or air duct etc. If that is good check to make sure you have fire. First start with the COIL wire coming of your distributor to see if your getting fire from the distributor. Make sure your ignition wire is plugged into the distributor. Google had wiring diagrams. Next if you have enough fire to the plugs you could always do a compression test. There are different ways of goin about this which I can explain in further detail. This will tell if you have enough compression. There is also other ways of performing pressure tests to see if you have broke valves or what not. That's just the mechanical side of it. Also in that year model the most common thing about going out is is the ignition module that is on top of the distributor. Over time moisture and heat will make them go out. Best way to check is go to the junk yard and get a few and try them out at the parts store they are about 40 bucks. Any questions just get with me in here Gary W its not gettin any fire and there's no corrosion wwitin on a buddy to bring me my tools back so I can see if there's any power goin from the ignition to the pcm Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 09, 2012, 07:40:04 pm Its not the pcm just changed it out and still nothin. So I guess its the ignition..??
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 10, 2012, 10:03:46 am How my 95 ain't wanton to start. No spark radio and cig lighters ain't workin.. but everything else does checked the fuses and wires under the hood on drivers side there all good same with the fuse box next to the door all wires are good. Is there hidden fuses anywhere? haha
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Melonhead on November 10, 2012, 05:09:04 pm check fuel pressure - its a 4.3, probably has spider type injectors. The crack in the intake and you lose fuel pressure and volume.
After you confirmed your getting enough fuel - check for spark, and if it will jump over at least 30 thousands of a gap Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 10, 2012, 08:10:17 pm Been workin on my truck all day changed the tumbler ignition sensor and ecm still nothin the ecm was burnt up I could smell it when I pulled the glove box off its gettin power to the dis cap but not makin spark and the radio and cig lighter ain't workin so I'm guessin a short or popped wire somewhere. That's on my 95 4x4 with the 350 tbi
Now on the 98 I changed out the cpm and reset it and still nothin tried takin it back to parts unlimited but they closed as I was pullin in the parkin lot. Think I'm gonna change out the hole ignition. He!! of a time for both my vehicles to $hit out on me. supposed to be up in Huntsville Wednesday mornin and I still have a hole houseful of crap to put in storage. Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Josh4211 on November 10, 2012, 08:38:23 pm Hey I don't know if have fix ur truck! If not is the engine light on on the cluster? If so get someone to hook it up and pull the codes. If it's not on, when you turn the key to the on position an the gauges on the cluster are jumping back and forth will the windshield wipers work or will the windows roll down if they are electric! But what I have read from your question it sounds like the ECM/ECU is bad! You can pull it out and have it checked. It's easy to pull it out! Just pull the glove box it's two screws just under the dash. Then you will be looking at the computer. Also you might pull the computer and on top of it there will be two screws pull them and make sure the chip is in it or make sure it's pushed all the way in! Just something to try! Let me know!
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on November 10, 2012, 09:05:57 pm Josh4211, he already swsped the ecm, its in his last thread. Dwhd, im lost with what it could be w/o lookn at it in person. Im still leaning towards the whole distro, but now the cig lighter n radio aint workn has thrown me.
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 10, 2012, 11:11:55 pm Josh4211, he already swsped the ecm, its in his last thread. Dwhd, im lost with what it could be w/o lookn at it in person. Im still leaning towards the whole distro, but now the cig lighter n radio aint workn has thrown me. Well I've checked everything on my 95 and the distro is fine. actually looks pretty new tearin the dash apart tomorrow to look for a burnt up wire. We'll see what happens with it. Now the 98 is just givin me one biga$$ headache had to walk away and load my lip up and work on the other one Bout ti say f&$@ it and get a 2nd gen cummins lol Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 12, 2012, 12:53:41 am Just sold the 98 on my 95 figured out its the ecm. Its gettin power to it but not puttin off anything gotta get a new one tomorrow hope that's it.
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 12, 2012, 10:37:25 am Gettin power to the ecm and gettin power to all fuses switched the module on my ecm to the new one and still nothin... like I said its gettin power to everything just still ain't wanton to start the dist cap is brand new wires are brand new plugs are brand new. Just doesn't make any since....
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: charles on November 12, 2012, 11:06:30 am I dont know much about elec ign. Is the actual distro driven by the cam does the rotor spin when the eng is turnd over? If u havnt changed the entire distoributor out, it may b that its not getn signal from the rotor to distro cap
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: dwhd93 on November 12, 2012, 11:25:23 am The distro and coil is gettin a reading on my fancy new micrometer but somehow its not gettin enough to spark up the plugs. The injectors ain't gettin any juice either along with the radio and cig lighters but I could give a number 2 about those 2 wish it was carburated instead of tbi...
Title: Re: **MECHANICS** Post by: Centexhogdogger on November 15, 2012, 03:09:39 pm The cig lighter and them ECM are linked
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