Many of the traits I select and test for - are not only transferable (for man or hog work) but also really just the basis for a sound, confident animal. If a dog doesn’t have the basics - the fundamentals - it won’t be used.
Puppy observation tests around 6-8weeks include
Testing for nerve/confidence/curiosity
Tossing a jar of rocks into a puppy pile - who takes off tail tucked and running. Who chases the jar excitedly. Who runs away but comes back to investigate. Who barks at it from a distance.
Playing tug with a rag - observing bite style and tenacity (who stays committed to a grip) - and for the stronger pups - who stays committed to the grip when the jar of rocks is shaken over head
Popping an umbrella open - purposely startling the pups
Who takes off running. Who stands firm. Who barks defensively. Who’s first to investigate.
Although puppies mature differently - some of these tests have served me quite well in picking individuals capable of working and working well. It demonstrates sound confident dogs who can meet challenges head on and what I feel a first demonstration of just WHO the dog is.
I test dogs defensively around 14-18mo depending how they are bred. A simple backtie test with a suspicious stranger who makes their way towards the dog about 50yards away is all it takes.
When will the dog start trying to create avoidance behavior in the suspicious stranger? At 50yards or at 10? Are you tucking tail and turning around exhibiting stress and avoidance or are you taught at the end of the leash coming forward curiously or letting out some cautionary barks. Are you just so confident that you’re not barking at all?
Everydog doesn’t make the cut. Everydog won’t be bred. Everydog won’t be suitable for high level work. Crossbreeding doesn’t guarantee consistency. But hopefully selection - with the understanding that I may get two lines will.
I already know the first crosses - won’t give me dogs suitable for man work. But rather ingredients I can build upon.
Thanks for the feedback!
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Brendan,
First I want to say...welcome aboard...we need more folks like you on here...
I have read all your posts and really like your thought processes...
The testing you do seem very insignificant but in reality they are huge...these details that seem so small, in reality speak volumes of what the pup will be some day...
I myself test all my pups and select accordingly...I can't say I have been wrong with the end results...at least I do not remember in having to cull pups I tested that made the cut...
Most of my ideas came from the German short haired pointer testing/culling processes from way back to include some police work testing and terrier testing...I didn't order books or anything like that just reading articles here and there before the internet was available...nothing formal just reading and learning...and developing my own testing ideas in keeping it simple, yet effective...
I will venture out and say every pup that would pass my testing would make good dogs...many will tell you to just close your eyes and pick a pup...testing is best used for identifying natural born instincts....IMO identifying natural born instinct is the absolute best way to select for working ability and for breeding better dogs...
having said that...there will be pups that don't make the cut that can and will make great dogs one day...but even then we can look at this critically as well...why select the one that turns on later when one can choose the pup that was born displaying the traits early? We can argue both sides but the bottom line...what would we rather have? Pups that don't display the traits early or the pups that do? I do not want a pup that will show positive traits at 6 months old when I can have one that does at 8-10 weeks of age...I couldn't see me keeping 8 pups till six months old to find out...
