How to put a rock solid handle on a dog?

[bdub9]

Pretty new here, so hello all! Id like to get some input and learn all I can. How do yall go about putting a real good handle on a dog? Im sure everyone has their different ways, but id like to see what methods, tips and tricks you guys have.

[make-em-squeel]

leerburg.com training DVDs are probably the most respected dog training methods according to everyone in the military and K9 training world, very high standards and a proven record. It has worked for me for sure (when I do it lol)

[make-em-squeel]

leerburg has nothing to do with hunting, strictly obedience, and bite work for all the competition working dogs and k9 use for police/military.

The old man on here is the only person I know who always has a cd that does not need a lead and wont go to a bay until he says, Im curious how he does it so consistently. My guess is electricity, shock collars are great imo

[bdub9]

Hey thank you for the input! Ill check those videos out. And yessir that's the point id like to get my dogs to, I just have two to hunt right now so id like to get all the extra individual time and handle on them while I can.

[Cajun]

  With me it all starts with pups. I cannot stand a shy dog and I raise my own and I am handling them from 2 or 3 weeks on. As far as baydogs go I start them on a 75 yard ski rope and teach them to come when I call or come to the tone. I have already taught them how to lead and basicly after that start teaching them to load up.
  On my bulldogs I start early and by 4 or 5 months old they know to heel, sit, stay and come. also down. Once they are 6 months or so I start teaching them to jump up on their house or objects they are able to jump up on and build from there. I have a 9 month old chocolate bulldog that can already jump up on top of the dogbox on the side x side and I feed him up there. He will also heel without a leash.

[bdub9]

I appreciate it Cajun. How and what age do you generally introduce an e-collar to a pup? I've been just letting mine run around with one on to get used to the weight of it so far.

[The Old Man]

The way I do my catchdog is I start them on a rope and just reel them in a few times, that progresses to a jerk and a pause, that progresses to a somersault, then shock collar, starting them on the rope and adding the shock collar just debolts them for further use with the shock collar after the rope process, that way you don't run one off when you shock them. All I am doing is crudely teaching them that come here is not optional, I'm sure it lacks the finesse of the true obedience training.. The loading I just do OJT as we go along, same with teaching them "somewhat" to get behind but it is not a solid heel, just so long as they don't try to wander off, or get in my way when we're riding. Same with my baydogs.  I don't go as far a Cajun describes for loading, heel, and sit but I can see there would be benefit to that.

[Reuben]

I train less than the old man or Cajun…

I feed the pups in one bowl and make sure they keep a good attitude while eating together…if I feed a raw hog head I supervise them the whole time to correct attitudes and take the head away when not supervising…
I pack them kind of tight in the dog box so they can get accustomed to togetherness…

I sit on top of the picnic table and make a point to have a pup or two up there with me so they can become  accustomed to platforms…

What the old man said…but a little different situation, when leading a dog for a walk, especially when leading them to load up and go hunting they will make somersaults in their excitement to go hunting…I use chain type leashes and I will pop them between the shoulders with the leash and I stop our forward progress…move forward when the dog calms and heels…repeat as needed and dogs will learn quickly…training can be easy when we know what to do…it took me a couple years to figure that little trick out…

The bottom line for me is to train to meet a minimum requirement I am comfortable with…

[bdub9]

Thank you Gentlemen, I like hearing what y’all have to say. I appreciate you guys all taking the time to share some wisdom!

[NLAhunter]

I do a lot similar to what the old man does on my bulldogs put em on a rope start em like that and to walk behind me and teach em to come when I tone em on rope they learn about tone and shock on rope then take em off rope and just go for walk I keep little limb if they try get ahead of me slap em on nose with it I want em following me they kinda learn to load and get in box along the way

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[NLAhunter]

I got 3 9 month old bulldogs all will follow behind me off lead 2 of em are loading on four wheeler good and I ain't been fooling with em near as much as I should have

[Arkansashunter96]

A tt15 helps a lot. Better than having a secondary separate shock collar imo. Easier to get them back at times after you tone break them. Easier to trash break as well. I can also work my dogs in the yard with it and sometimes a hard stimulation is needed for a bulldog. But remember to also start light. Sometimes I just got to use vibrate to cut their attention off of whatever. Leash time helps a lot as well something I need to put more time in with my bay dogs.

[bdub9]

Thank yall for all the input, its greatly appreciated

[Austesus]

I am by no means as experienced or seasoned as many of the members on here, but I’ve learned a lot by listening to their advice and what I’m doing now has been working pretty well.

I start with pups (now that I’m raising my own this is pretty easy). I will use bits of hamburger meat or small treats and I will give the pups a few bites to make them taste it and realize they want it. Then I’ll just stand there while they whine and bark or try to climb on my leg for the treat (I’m talking around 8 weeks old or less) and I won’t do or say anything. Once one puppy gets bored and sits, I immediately give that puppy a treat with the command of “yes”. It only takes a few days and they’ll all start doing it, monkey see monkey do. My last litter I raised, at 5 weeks old the whole litter would sit and wait for me to put the food bowl down. As soon as they get it with treats, I do it with the food. Once all of them will sit and stay sitting until I put the food bowl down I start working on the stay command. This takes more time because I do it with them individually. It can be a little trying but patience is a good virtue. I will make them sit, tell them to stay, and every time they move I will snatch the bowl back up. The goal is to work up to them staying just long enough for me to say “yes” right as the bowl touches the ground. After they master that, I make them wait longer. All of my grown dogs will sit and stay and will not touch a bowl of food until I tell them “yes”. I can set down bowls in front of 4-5 dogs and they will all wait until I give the command. While this is convenient for feeding purposes, my main goal is a handle. I think that if a dog will listen to you over food, it makes them listen better in general.

With the puppies once they’re 8 weeks or older I start feeding them on the tailgate, one at a time. As soon as I open their pen I start walking them to the truck (parked 15ft away) and I tell them to “load up” as I’m walking this way. As soon as they’re physically big enough they will start jumping up to eat. Up until that point I just pick them up while saying load up at the same time. Then when they finish I say “down” as I’m setting them back on the ground. This is a easy way that’s not much extra work, and food is a great training tool. Once they start ranging out in the yard, I’ll watch them for a while and then whistle them back to me and I’ll give them a treat. I will do this several times while they’re out, but after I give the treat I completely ignore them until they go back out again. I give them a reward for returning when called, but I do not pet on them and teach them to stay at my feet. Using a recall too often with puppies will make them want to stay with you the whole time. Once they’re old enough to mentally handle a shock, I will begin time training them. At this point they already know to recall when I call them, and so if they don’t listen it’s because they choose not too, not because they don’t understand. I’ll put them in the fenced in area around my pool and call them and give them a treat every time they come over (this is with 7-8 month old pups normally) and I’ll beep the collar at the same time that they’re coming to me. I try to make this very fun for the pups and they’ll run full speed to get the treat from me. After a day or two of doing that, I will repeat it one time to start, and then I will only beep the collar, they will come right to me. Then I will take them in the open yard and do the same thing, still with treats for a reward. If they don’t come, I will give a light bump at level 2 or 3, and I will continue to go up if they don’t listen. After a few days of this I remove the treats and just give them a pat on the head when they come to me, giving a treat randomly. The trick is not going too fast for the dog. Slow progression with no setbacks is the recipe for success in my opinion. If you try to go to just the beep too fast, you will have a harder time getting them to listen.

That’s about the extent of my handle training. I only want a few things, I want them to load up easy, I want them to sit and stay when I tell them, I want them to stop whatever they’re doing if I tell them, and I want them to turn around and come back if I tone them. The trick is consistency. With a young dog I will work him for 15 minutes or so every single day until he really has it locked in, and then I’ll still work with him every few weeks to keep him tuned up. I like using short commands and they’re the same every time, if I want a dog to stop doing something I say his name and then “no”. I don’t give a full sentence that’s different every time, dogs don’t learn well like that.


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[Reuben]

Excellent post Austin…

And you made 2 key comments…

Consistency in training…

No setbacks during training…this is very simple but a mistake can be a setback that can take a while to correct…I always watch the demeanor of the pup to make sure things are staying positive…treats definitely help in keeping things positive…

[Muddy-N-Bloody]

Good question dub
I’m not the one to listen to but most everything has been covered from everyone- there is 100 ways to skin a cat- what I will say is most important is find what works for u and what u like- TIME is the main key- u have to spend it- good bred dogs is a dang major plus but is not what u asked but is very helpful
I wish u luck
U will enjoy good handle more than you think


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