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Author Topic: Ideal hunting knife....  (Read 1962 times)
Reuben
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« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2014, 07:39:59 pm »

Buck 119 Special, don't cost to much if you lose it and it is a good all around knife.

my second choice...can't chop a 2" sapling but a lightweight knife that is not bulkyand the blade is thin enough to field dress and debone meat and stick a pig...
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
A hunting dog is born not made...
Irondog87
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2014, 09:54:43 pm »

Case Sodbuster CV 4 1/2" blade I believe. But we catch alive almost all the time. When I was sticking I had a homemade sticker out of stainless toe plate that was 10" double edge worked awesome.


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Black Smith
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« Reply #22 on: April 01, 2014, 12:26:36 am »

Tree brand Trapper
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haakdt
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« Reply #23 on: April 01, 2014, 01:13:30 am »



Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk
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"If you can't hang with the big dogs then stay outta the street"
charles
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« Reply #24 on: April 01, 2014, 01:39:39 am »

For a home manufactured knife, take a look at tuskbuster's knives and see if there is any that catches ur eye and build off that, or go to a store that carrys a big selection of knives n c whats offered n build off that, or go online and do the same.
Everybody has their own likes and dislikes, so building knives will have to be done on request and customized for that person. Some may want a handheld bulldozer blade so they be a modern paul bunion, some stay with the basics.
As mentioned before, a slip gaurd to prevent the hand from sliding down the edge, so start there n build from there. I use an auto opener, so muddy, bloody, dirty or clean hands, i cant push a button and it opens. For a strait blade sheathed knive, tuskbuster and lance both do excelent work with metals. A knife that can stab, chop and then skin will be were to start, and that will depend of wt. of the knife, type of metal used and temperness of blade. To hard and its hard to sharpen, higher probability of braking but holds an edge longer; to soft and wont hold edge long n require sharpening to much but wont brake as easy. Gotta find that sweet spot for temper.
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Reuben
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« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2014, 04:36:11 am »

^^^good post Charles...
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
A hunting dog is born not made...
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