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treeingratterrier
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« on: November 30, 2011, 12:28:51 pm » |
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We have place in Florida with no power, I have a 400 amp Hobart diesel welder machine with 110 plugs. I see a lot of these prefab kennels with welded panels using utiltity panels made out of galvanized welded wire welded to the 2 inch square tubing, my question is what are they using to weld them, looks like to me its one of those lil cheap 110 volt wirefeeders set ups from TSC?? Anybody know if i(NOT THAT GOOD WITH SMALL STUFF) can use the stick welder i have to weld those small 6 ga panel rods to the square tubing??? It does not have 220 plug if the welding machine needs 220 power, I have also been wondering how do they cut those utitlity panels with, are they using bolt cutters or a torch turned down low?? I have found 6 foot tall utitlity panels 4x4 squares 20 foot long for $56 bucks i pick them up, am going to get some quotes from Alamo Iron works on 2inch 40 foot square tubing to use for the frame of the kennel but am wondering what to use to make the doors frames out of?? That 2 inch looks too big/ hd and been thinking about just 1 inch or 1 1/2 instead for the door frame to weld pannel to.
Plan is to make the cells 5x10 so will have no waste from the 20 foot pannel 6 foot high, going to put roof on it and set it on top of a deck with 2x6's on top of 12x12x20's, trying to gather up materials and sourcing them so i can haul the stuff over to the ranch soon, please feel free to offer any tips on what rod or machine or anything i might be missing on correct size of the cell or tubing etc, goal is to be able to walk into the cell and leave a gap at the back to blow waste out with a gas powerwasher and slope it as well, got to put a roof on it as well as no shade over there n central florida where am going to move to, thanks!!!
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mutlycrewhogdogs
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« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2011, 01:24:33 pm » |
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You should be able to weld all of what your wanting to weld with a 6011 rod may just have to turn the heat down a little.
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ETHHunters
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2011, 01:40:26 pm » |
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You got all you need in that hobart!
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treeingratterrier
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« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2011, 02:05:56 pm » |
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Thats what i was thinking, flux wire with a feeder, thanks, now i know if i cant run rod i will just go buy a 110 wire feeder and use wire off the 110 end of th emachine. Anybody got a link to hinges that will let the door go both ways in and out?? I got those hoplok latches already left over to use, gees shame that guy is not using 6 foot tall panels and a different door set up, it wont fit under a roof the way its set up, i am going to have the extra 2x6's stick out for a walkway in front of the cell like that deck Matt built a while back. What about the square tubing size guys, is 2 inch ok for the top and bottoms, what size should the door frame be made out of?? Its been so long since i have dont anything like this i dont know where to buy good hinges anymore? I think somebody bought some off of ebay but i cant find th epost with th elink??
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shinerslayers
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« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2011, 02:34:56 pm » |
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I cut my panels with either a saws-all, grinder with a cutting wheel(fastest), or just burn thru them with a stick electrode. And I used perlin where u are gonna use square tubing to weld the panel to
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charles
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2011, 02:45:55 pm » |
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that stik machine will work fine for what ur wanting to do. just turn the heat down to 70-80, instead of the 90-100 for the 6011 rod. i use a 110vac wire welder as said by CircleC too and it works fine. if the stik mach is all u got, turn the heat down till just above the temp that the rod will stick bc of lack of heat. u will b just fine.
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Why should I trade one tyrant three thousand miles away for three thousand tyrants one mile away? An elected legislature can trample a man's rights as easily as a king can!
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treeingratterrier
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2011, 03:54:54 pm » |
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I cut my panels with either a saws-all, grinder with a cutting wheel(fastest), or just burn thru them with a stick electrode. And I used perlin where u are gonna use square tubing to weld the panel to
I have a sawsall and would have never though to to use it, thanks for that tip, I like the idea of the the grinding wheel as well on a 4 1/2 inch grinder, i dont have strength to run those 4 foot bolt cutters, the wheel and sawszall sounds light easy and fast, thanks! |
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Circle C
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2011, 03:59:47 pm » |
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I've run a couple thousand feet of 2-3/8 pipe and panel fence this past year or so, fencing in pens, and a couple of arenas. I started out torch cutting the panels, then decided it was 50x faster to turn the Miller up to about 350, and burn right through the panels. You can take a 1/8" rod and burn through an entire panel in about 20-30 seconds.
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Never get too busy making a living that you forget to make a life.
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treeingratterrier
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2011, 04:07:36 pm » |
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I've run a couple thousand feet of 2-3/8 pipe and panel fence this past year or so, fencing in pens, and a couple of arenas. I started out torch cutting the panels, then decided it was 50x faster to turn the Miller up to about 350, and burn right through the panels. You can take a 1/8" rod and burn through an entire panel in about 20-30 seconds.
Noted, thanks for the tip!!!! So you were using stick to weld those panels up to the 2 3/8s?? About all i have ever welded is 3/8s Bu 90 on D8 cat rollers idlers and sprockets and never anything especially that galvanzied stuff and just worried about being small and burning it up.. |
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Circle C
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« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2011, 04:19:07 pm » |
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When I build dog boxes, racks, pasture gates, etc. I typically use 1/8-3/16" wall square tubing for the frame, and use my little wire feed welder to attach the panels.
If I am building pipe/panel fence, I use a Miller 400 diesel and run it between about 60-85 depending on the gauge of the panel I am welding. I don't worry too much about the electrodes I am using, but I usually have some 3/16 or 1/8 5p+ on hand. I'll attach the panels on the top rail with a 1" bead every 2' or so. Then I run a tack on each wire on the uprights. It ends up being pretty inexpensive fencing, I buy the drill stem, or 2-3/8 new surplus pipe for $1.00 per foot. If I am using 16' combo panels, I put the posts on 8' centers, so with a post every 8' and a the top rail I end up using 2' of pipe for every linear foot of fence. The 16' panels run ~20.00 per 16' panel.
$2.00 per linear foot in pipe
$1.25 per linear foot in panel.
.50 per foot in concrete
Works out to less than 4.00 per foot for a fence that looks good, and will hold what you put in it.
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Never get too busy making a living that you forget to make a life.
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Bar W
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« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2011, 08:22:27 pm » |
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I use a metal cut off wheel on a skill saw to cut panels. Weld em to 16 gauge tubing with 6011 rods on about 60 or 70 setting. Whatever the lowest I can use with out sticking is. If your welding on the ends just cut a little long and you'll have some uh oh I melted that one room, till u get in a rhythm.
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Randy_P
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« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2011, 09:01:50 pm » |
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If you are only welding the tubing and panel just get a 7014 rod and run about 90. Strikes easy and runs smooth without all the heat that the 6011 will put out. Either way is fine but the 7014 wont test your nerves like the 6011 will on that thin wall tubing.
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Beaucephus
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« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2011, 09:31:29 pm » |
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Everyone that has posted is correct. Just a little tip. Build you puddle on the pipe and drag or push it onto the panel. I run it hot so it strikes fast and penetrates the pipe and panel quickly
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