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Author Topic: All You Dog TRAINERS!!!  (Read 5521 times)
uglydog
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« Reply #40 on: April 25, 2012, 10:21:29 pm »

"Finsihed", "started" "good" "turnout" "Alot", "a couple" are only relative terms by which each individual is using them. One persons idea of a finished dog is a dog thats finally finding hogs on its own, (yeah, not mine but I a few days ago talked to a breeder that was calling several young dogs finished so I had to ask) then many from this forum do not consider a dog finished until the dog can no longer reach a state of improvement.

So there fore saying well "EVERYDOG I EVER TRAINED TURNED OUT" I guess I could make that claim, they all turned out to eat out of a feed bowl and crap out a pile a crap and most would bark at a hog, (even the chi-weenies) so does that make me a good dog trainer?

WHY YES I THINK I AM A REALLY GOOD DOG TRAINER!!! JUST ASK THE DOGS!!! lol. Cool


I will tell you I can train a dog to consistently go 50-60 yards away, (this is WORST CASE SCENARIO DOG) its called obedience and conditioning, I can teach a dog to track and trail and do alot of conditioned responses

BUT-
I  WONT, because IF I have to TRAIN A DOG TO DO THIS IT HAS NO BUSINESS BEING IN THE WOODS. I should NOT have to TEACH what come NATURAL to so many others. I have been a trainer for along time and cant stand it I rather work off of physcology and behaviors, what comes natural to a dog being a dog. If it dont have it fine, I am not going to make you.

YOU ARE RUINING OUR HUNTING IF YOU TELL PEOPLE YOU TEACH A DOG TO GO AGAINST ITS WILL. I TELL NUTS AND FRUITCakes all time I can train adog to do about anything but I can teach them to want to be a hunting dog, and want to run with a pack. EVERY Time a PETA FREAK says WE MAKE OUR DOGS TEAR APART WILD HOGS and FIGHT THOSE POOR INNOCENT HOGS, you are feeding them more fuel to help them believe their own made-up LIES.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 10:23:00 pm by uglydog » Logged

Kid7
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« Reply #41 on: April 26, 2012, 09:21:08 am »

I won't let anyone touch my dogs! There is no better feelin wen you hear your dog that you hav spent more time with open up and bay a hog I don't care who you are if you hav put a lot of time in the dog it's a Wayyyy better satisfaction than for someone to do it for you
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Seth Gillespie
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« Reply #42 on: April 26, 2012, 10:30:05 am »

You can lead a horse to water but can't make him drink same way with a dog you can lead a dog to the woods but that don't mean he will hunt
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Reuben
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« Reply #43 on: April 26, 2012, 11:08:31 am »

You can lead a horse to water but can't make him drink same way with a dog you can lead a dog to the woods but that don't mean he will hunt

amen to that...
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
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« Reply #44 on: July 27, 2012, 09:03:46 pm »

Just to ask does any body know how to turn the hunting switch off on dogs that just won't come back would rather have there heads down and trailing its maybe good thing they have the drive. After being late for work again with no sleep I'm to the point to see if any body knows a good woods pen with no way out just to try too get a handle on them I walk them every day on a 25' rope but they only come to a bone! Lol 
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T-Bob Parker
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« Reply #45 on: July 27, 2012, 09:15:59 pm »

My opinion is totally situational, as only you know why the situation was. I'm not talking about a dog being bayed and called off, I'm trying to answer your question about any dog knowingly disobeying you and purposefully trying to get away from you to keep doing what it wants.

I would give it a few oppurtunities to listen, eventually I would catch that sob and wear its ever loving azz plum t-total out with a tallow switch for having to be captured and the next time it got turned loose it would be wearing a shiny new tritronics. And when I call if it don't come, (don't shock it when you can't see it) I would track to it and tell it to come to me and the next step in the wrong direction would be met with an appropriate level of correction.

If the dog shows no ability or desire to have handle, then as hard as it is to do, I would get out the shovel. I firmly believe a dog that won't handle ain't worth having and is certainly never worth breeding.
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Muddogkennels
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« Reply #46 on: July 27, 2012, 09:46:03 pm »

So before I go to fair they are pups but there drive is a good hyperness but unless I have a treat they will come u think shocking them will help our scare them not to come?
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« Reply #47 on: July 27, 2012, 09:57:59 pm »

So before I go to fair they are pups but there drive is a good hyperness but unless I have a treat they will come u think shocking them will help our scare them not to come?

I would have the dog in a controlled environment...then I would call him to me and light him up a time or 2 and when he came up I would praise him for coming...once he comes when called I would take him out and let him range...make sure he is in range and call him in...never give the command if you think you can't back it up...don't let your emotions get the best of you...just be calm and cool when training...the dog will trust you and will learn quite a bit faster...
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
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« Reply #48 on: July 27, 2012, 10:17:15 pm »

Thanks I,ll give it a try i guess its time will tell but sounds like it will work,
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T-Bob Parker
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« Reply #49 on: July 27, 2012, 10:23:18 pm »

So before I go to fair they are pups but there drive is a good hyperness but unless I have a treat they will come u think shocking them will help our scare them not to come?

Like I said friend, situational, I didn't know they were pups, but, I personally don't care what age they are. Any dog getting turned loose should have basic handle. Come here is as basic as it gets.

Shocking them can ruin them if a person doesn't use the training method appropriately. Notice that I said at the next step in the wrong direction should be met with appropriate correction. This means you say come, they step towards you, you praise, they turn their head and twitch their shoulder to bolt and you buzz them at a tolerable but firm level for a moment. They will inevitably make a move as a reaction to the pain. If this move is to you, they have chosen correctly and will receive praise when you get hands on them. If the move is away from you they need to receive another bump until they step your direction. I believe a shock collar should be the same as an invisible leash. When they take appropriate actions, they have slack, when they disobey, they get a tug.

Also one should do all they can to not let the dog assosiate the handler with the pain so much as thinking its their own actions that are causing discomfort.
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« Reply #50 on: July 27, 2012, 11:19:59 pm »

I don't even see a need to send them for trash breaking. With the money you're spending why not buy a shock collar? Huh?

Something an old man told me...he's never led me wrong


T-trash break
R-reinforce good behavior
A-accept the dog for what he is
I-interact with the dog
N-nutrition
E-exercise
R-repeat







Thats one of the best things ive read.
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Reuben
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« Reply #51 on: July 28, 2012, 05:33:07 am »

So before I go to fair they are pups but there drive is a good hyperness but unless I have a treat they will come u think shocking them will help our scare them not to come?

I would have the dog in a controlled environment...then I would call him to me and light him up a time or 2 and when he came up I would praise him for coming...once he comes when called I would take him out and let him range...make sure he is in range and call him in...never give the command if you think you can't back it up...don't let your emotions get the best of you...just be calm and cool when training...the dog will trust you and will learn quite a bit faster...

I need to explain controlled environment...for me it is in a place where I know I have control over the dog...if you shock the dog where he can run out of range then you just trained the dog to run out of range and he can hunt to his hearts content...once the dog has it down in a controlled setting then move the training elsewhere.

keeping calm and cool when training will teach the dog that you are trustworthy and reliable and nothing bad will happen to him when he is around you...so when unpleasant things happen to him coming to you will make it better...
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
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« Reply #52 on: July 28, 2012, 09:43:02 am »

 all of this is good advice . remember there are many settings on the shockers when starting out you need to establish EACH dogs setting. don't just go out there and holler here and try to fry them if they don't come . and above all handle on a dog works alot better when they like you in the first place .
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« Reply #53 on: July 28, 2012, 01:46:42 pm »

all of this is good advice . remember there are many settings on the shockers when starting out you need to establish EACH dogs setting. don't just go out there and holler here and try to fry them if they don't come . and above all handle on a dog works alot better when they like you in the first place .

X100.....and  BIG amen to that. Although I have done it in the past, the waaaaay back past.....I now see no need to whip a dog for disobeying you. That's what we have the shock collar for,....I don't want my dog to think I had anything whatsoever to do with it's punishment for doing the wrong thing....if you catch that dog and give it a thrashing....seems to me that the main thing it's going to get from that is to stay away from you....which is exactly what I don't want the dog to think. Just my opinion......but it's worked dang well on mine so far.
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« Reply #54 on: July 28, 2012, 02:33:28 pm »

all of this is good advice . remember there are many settings on the shockers when starting out you need to establish EACH dogs setting. don't just go out there and holler here and try to fry them if they don't come . and above all handle on a dog works alot better when they like you in the first place .

X100.....and  BIG amen to that. Although I have done it in the past, the waaaaay back past.....I now see no need to whip a dog for disobeying you. That's what we have the shock collar for,....I don't want my dog to think I had anything whatsoever to do with it's punishment for doing the wrong thing....if you catch that dog and give it a thrashing....seems to me that the main thing it's going to get from that is to stay away from you....which is exactly what I don't want the dog to think. Just my opinion......but it's worked dang well on mine so far.

when you call the dog to whip him, all the dog is getting out of it is that when you call it will get whipped...then the dog learns he can out run you so now you have re-reinforced the idea for the dog to run from you...just the opposite of what was trying to be accomplished... Grin
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Training dogs is not about quantity, it's more about timing, the right situations, and proper guidance...After that it's up to the dog...
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« Reply #55 on: July 29, 2012, 09:08:58 am »

Exactly...... Smiley
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