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Author Topic: Wood or concrete  (Read 1282 times)
Swine-Stalker
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« on: January 09, 2013, 09:50:27 pm »

I am sure y'all are getting tired of the kennel questions but I got a few last questions. With the rain we have been getting ( 2-3 times a week since December and 7" in 24hrs with more in the forecast) I would need a month straight of no rain to get a concrete truck to the back, and all this rain is givin me to much time to think about what i want. I decided concrete over gravel but now i am thinking about doing wood kennels with deck floor just so I can get them built. I have done layouts 4 or 5 times changed them around a lot and did material take offs 4 or 5 times and 4-5 kennels concrete or wood will both cost 1000 to 1200. I just want to decide and quit using a day a week re sketching and doing take offs.

Questions
Your preference wood now or wait for concrete?

Your preferred pin size? I was gonna do 4W x 10L x 6H would it be too crowded to double up if I need to until I add on?

Pros and cons of wood and concrete?

Wood comes out a tad cheaper but concrete is easier to maintain. Wood would be cheaper and easier to add on to if needed.


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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2013, 10:00:45 pm »

My pens are 8X16 all cattle panels. Had to modify one for a climber. I was doubled up on a couple for a while. Dogs didn't seem to mind. Now I'm back to singles except one pen that I have two pups in.
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Douglas524
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« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2013, 02:10:45 pm »

I have had both and wood I feel is the way to go with a gap between the slats and metal deck with 2x6 treated wood on top . Takes about 5 mins to clean dogs like it better too.
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Swine-Stalker
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« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2013, 02:26:43 pm »

Metal deck? You lost me there...
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jon
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« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2013, 02:35:49 pm »

he probably ment metal frame instead of wood all the way, metal frame (c purlin) with deck boards on top is what i'd like to do some day
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2013, 03:03:13 pm »

Wood.100% clean and easy pups can still get sick from virus on concrete!  And the dogs are comfortable with it. And not problem to double up. I have 10x10 hurricane kennels that are the sturdy kind. I spent $500 in wood and $1000 in kennels

Look at my previous post i have my kennels on here
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ETHHunters
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« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2013, 05:19:09 pm »

The wood kennels work good. I wouldn't recommend any metal from the floor down. C perlins will only last a couple years before they start to rust. They can't handle the urine and washing out. I've had both and the only way I would pour concrete kennels if I had the money to put in drains and a septic system.
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Swine-Stalker
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« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2013, 06:01:46 pm »

Good info, thanks. Might go ahead and take a trip to Home Depot tomorrow and get this started instead of waiting on the yard to dry. The high spot in the back of the pic never floods so I am putting it there.
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« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2013, 06:28:20 pm »

Next question... To save money, maximum distance between floor joists? I won't be walking in them hardly at all just the dogs.
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« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2013, 07:00:41 pm »

How deep are you going to make them? Are you going to build a deck and set kennels on too or are you building kennels and all?
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DWEST
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« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2013, 07:15:45 pm »

best route would probably be to put your floor joist on 24" center and use the 5/4 corral boards for the decking.  I know where I am TSC has the best price on them, way cheaper than home depot or lowes
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justincorbell
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« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2013, 07:39:48 pm »

in my opinion I wouldn't double up dogs in a 4x10 for to long, might get a little cramped. just my thoughts
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« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2013, 07:42:07 pm »

Individual kennels 4w 10L 6h all including deck connected to 4x4 posts in ground
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« Reply #13 on: January 10, 2013, 08:10:04 pm »

If u really want concrete, why not get a pump tck to pump the mud since u cant get a truck to where u want the kennels? Adding to crete kennels aint hard, just drill n drive rebar into existing slab, set forms n pour away.
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« Reply #14 on: January 10, 2013, 08:16:07 pm »

another idea...I'm making mine 4x8.  Always easier with building materials, if you make things divisible by 4
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« Reply #15 on: January 10, 2013, 09:13:36 pm »

Might as well go every two feet on the floor joist. You could go 2 1/2 feet but you not saving many boards. I would go with 2x6 on the floor. They are less expensive than the deck boards. I wouldn't leave a crack when putting the floor down the boards are going to shrink quite a bit when they dry out.
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« Reply #16 on: January 10, 2013, 09:32:02 pm »

Might as well go every two feet on the floor joist. You could go 2 1/2 feet but you not saving many boards. I would go with 2x6 on the floor. They are less expensive than the deck boards. I wouldn't leave a crack when putting the floor down the boards are going to shrink quite a bit when they dry out.

depending on the weather/humidity where you are...I know in central florida you better leave a gap, they will expand and contract.
I agree with ETH on not bothering going to 30"...you can do the math, you wont save much...unless you're building upwards of 20 kennels
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Swine-Stalker
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« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2013, 09:55:54 pm »

Humidity is a major problem here near Baton Rouge. Any of you had wood kennels for a while in a high humidity area? How long can I expect them to last made out of treated wood?
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« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2013, 07:03:42 am »

You are correct I meant to say metal frame and wood deck have had mine on wood for 5 years with no problems.
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mtarrant23
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« Reply #19 on: January 12, 2013, 08:29:44 pm »

From my experience with my kennels I will never go back with a metal frame do all wood with lil to no crack in the deck boards and 20 to 24 inches off the ground so you get air under them and mount your panels where they can be replaced easy although galvanized urine will eat through it through the years get you a couple chickens to clean up after the dogs and you got it going on size I would say 5 by 10
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