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Author Topic: mechanic  (Read 2567 times)
dwhd93
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« on: March 22, 2013, 08:59:58 pm »

Got a 94 Chevy that don't wanna stay cool. Replaced the water pump(it had a bad crack in it) and yesterday I replaced the radiator(it cracked yesterday on the way to Huntsville) and took the thermostat out so it'd have a constant flow from the radiator but its still not stayin where it used to at about 190ish its up 240-250 now just seein if ya'll know of somethin I'm missin?
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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2013, 09:07:54 pm »

Next things to look for would be a cracked head or block, or head gasket. Can't remember what year the vortec motors started, but the vortec heads do not tolerate heat very well. Are you losing coolant? If so, I'd get a pressure tester and check your oil for coolant which would tell you there is a crack somewhere. Or pull plugs and look for water and a blown head gasket.
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dwhd93
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2013, 09:11:04 pm »

The vortec didn't start till 96. And it ain't drippin or nothin
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Peachcreek
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« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2013, 09:23:40 pm »

U may have installed a reverse rotation water pump on it?Huh? Is your waterpump pulley slick or does it have grooves for the belt. I have had the parts house give me the wrong pump before and the motor will fry, good luck
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charles
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« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2013, 09:39:02 pm »

Did you remove the thermostat after replacing the radiator or during the replacement process of the radiator? Removing the thermostat is worse than having a plugged up radiator. A properly rated and working thermostat, "IF"all other cooling components functioning as they were designed will keep the coolant from reaching its boiling point. The cooling system is just like a pressure cooker or putting a lid on a pot of hot water, the rad cap helps build pressure, while the thermostat acts as a popet valve, allowing a lil hot (near boiling) coolant from boiling over. Another thing could be the radiator is to small of a core to hdndle the tcks engine coolant needs, cores to small, not enough core or a couple rows of cores crimped off, not letting the fluids circulate efficiently. If you have no boil overs, no oil in water or water in oil, your heads and gaskets are fine, but there may also be debri from yrs of chemical electrolosis build up or from the previously damaged pump or gasketing material clogging the cooling system.
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« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2013, 09:53:17 pm »

Removed the thermostat. Took it around the loop here in crockett stopped by oreillys to get the rad then back to the house and it was at about 240. Installed the new rad took around the loop stayed about 160 till I pulled onto my road then it got to about 230-240 pretty quick. It doesn't have a fan cowling but I've had the truck since November and ain't effected it none guess ill put the thermostat back tomorrow and see if that helps any. I just always heard it runs cooler that way
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dwhd93
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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2013, 09:54:40 pm »

U may have installed a reverse rotation water pump on it?Huh? Is your waterpump pulley slick or does it have grooves for the belt. I have had the parts house give me the wrong pump before and the motor will fry, good luck

its the right pump. I put it on about 3 weeks ago and its been coolin fine till now
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Peachcreek
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« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2013, 10:05:05 pm »

It has been my experience that a small block chevy will run cooler without a t stat. U might check your radiator hoses. I had a lower hose one time that got flimsy and would suck shut. Usually the upper hoses dont collapse due to the direction of the flow.
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dwhd93
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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2013, 10:11:04 pm »

Alright ill check on that tomorrow. I appreciate yalls help
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2013, 10:24:47 am »

im having the same problems with my wifes impala right now, new thermostat new water pump took the radiator out and flushed it real good put all new hoses on, all about 3-4 weeks ago then yesterday it got hot
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2013, 10:40:41 am »

    easiest thing to do at this point is have the cooling system pressure tested . a cracked head depending on where it is cracked . you could be loosing water as steam out the tail pipe .
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« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2013, 10:42:34 am »

I have seen the water pump be an issue more than once... The parts house guys give the wrong pump. A wrong rotation pump will half ars cool the motor
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« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2013, 12:21:27 pm »

There is a lot of problems with cross contamination with coolant. Such as using green instead of dexcool. Vice versa. When dex cool mixes with regular coolant it can and will sludge up your coolant passages over time. So if you haven't crossed coolants then don't. If you had that stuff is almost impossible ti clean out of engIne. Lots of coolant flushes pulling radiator and pump off to hand clean them and try to clean engine out as much as possible. Collapsed hoses are a big problem on that year. Just a Little advise.
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dwhd93
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« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2013, 01:55:04 pm »

Started it up this mornin let it run for a little bit never got over 150-160 but was blowin some real rich smellin white exhaust tool it around the loop stayed around 140ish got back to the house no more rich smell and no more white exhaust so maybe it fixed itself? lol hell I dunno Ill find out Monday when I make that 45 minute drive
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« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2013, 02:22:20 pm »

If it smells sweet its burnin antifreeze, cracked head or blown hg.
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dwhd93
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« Reply #15 on: March 23, 2013, 02:30:59 pm »

There's no antifreeze in the system. Its all water
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« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2013, 05:29:29 pm »

There's no antifreeze in the system. Its all water

It needs anti-freeze in it, even in summer time. It raises the boiling point of the water. Strait water will work in a pinch, but it helps to have antifreeze. Run u some bars leak in it, it helps with leaks, but also helps lube the cooling system, extending water pump and thermostat life.
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« Reply #17 on: March 23, 2013, 06:04:46 pm »

There's no antifreeze in the system. Its all water

It needs anti-freeze in it, even in summer time. It raises the boiling point of the water. Strait water will work in a pinch, but it helps to have antifreeze. Run u some bars leak in it, it helps with leaks, but also helps lube the cooling system, extending water pump and thermostat life.

will do. Thanks Charles
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« Reply #18 on: March 23, 2013, 10:28:34 pm »

Started it up this mornin let it run for a little bit never got over 150-160 but was blowin some real rich smellin white exhaust tool it around the loop stayed around 140ish got back to the house no more rich smell and no more white exhaust so maybe it fixed itself? lol hell I dunno Ill find out Monday when I make that 45 minute drive
White smoke is burning coolant no ifs ands or buts. Most likely a cracked head. Then as it warms up the metal expands and pushes the crack together and slows the leak. Check online for new heads. The cracked head will not be taken for a core. Be sure to use your VIN and any numbers off the block to be sure you get the correct heads the first time.

Like Charles said you never use just water. Anti freeze is also coolant. Water boils before the coolant will. It also lubricates as it goes so your pumps and seals last as well as prevents corrosion.
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dwhd93
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« Reply #19 on: March 23, 2013, 11:19:39 pm »

Well ill probably change out the gaskets first considerin there 30-50 a peice and I did a quick search on oreilly auto and it was 1,400 for a new head. Ill spend a couple hundred bucks and drop a 350 in the truck before I spend that much on somethin I'm gettin rid of in a couple months
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